A
Fall Trip Through Provence
and the Côte d’Azur!
A ten-day exploration
of the charms of the French Riviera and the grandeur of a
Rhone River cruise.
T
he following is a detailed report that follows
our trip itinerary and includes traveler’s notes on
the places we visited, impressions of our river cruise and
hotels, meals
and wines we enjoyed, notes on some hotels and excursions
we made either with a group or on our own.
Part 3: Burgundy, the Maconnais, Beaujolais, Lyon
Day 11 BURGUNDY, the MACONNAIS, the
BEAUJOLAIS. Now we’re in the Burgundy region,
and the wine-growing hills of the Maconnais, famous for
white burgundy (chardonnay). I’ve arranged
a private tour for Steve, myself, and another couple, fellow
passengers, Californians who share our passion for wine.
Minutes from the dock we are the only car on a winding
country road amidst acres and acres of rolling vineyards,
in the white burgundy growing region of Pouilly-Fuisse.
Our tour guide Frederic is a delight, and so knowledgeable
about wine. It’s a beautiful morning and we make
our way along quiet country roads framed by golden vineyards
in a lovely valley. We stop to examine some vines and smell
the rocks that contribute the flinty, minerally flavors
and bouquet of the delicious wines from the area. We stop
into a tiny family winery, Domaine des Boutirnes, where
the proprietor pours us tastes of crisp, acidic, lively
Pouilly-Fuisse. A second stop is at Phillippe des Roches
where we enjoy a 2003 Grand Pre Pouilly-Fuisse (Solutres-Pouilly),
a fine wine for a mere 11 euros a bottle. We continue up
to the foot of a famous prehistoric site, the rock of Solutres,
which dominates the valley of the Saone and the vineyards
of Pouilly-Fuisse. We’ll never forget this wonderful
morning, and the wines that tasted just like the landscape,
if you know what I mean.
Back on the ship by noon we’re motoring
again for a few relaxing hours. We take some lounge chairs
on topdeck to enjoy the voyage. By now we've come to
fully appreciate the unique experience of river cruising:
the slow pace of our journey; the simplicity and ease of
this mode of travel; the charm of the river towns, and above
all, the beauty of the river landscapes. Arriving Trevoux,
we board the tour bus for an excursion through the Beaujolais
wine-growing region. Soon we are winding through an area
that is truly spectacular, past the vineyards above the Saone
valley. Along the way we take in a panoramic view of vineyards,
hills and tiny valleys where pretty villages nestle around
their church spires. In Oingt, a medieval fortified town,
we walk along the old paths, visit the simple church and
enjoy the views of mountains and valley below.
Our last night of the cruise, our ship returns
to Lyon after dark, and to our delight, the basilica on the
hill, the bridges that span the two rivers, the entire city—is
illuminated. It is a wonderful sight from top deck, and a
memorable end to a truly enjoyable river cruise.
For the traveler who has not yet tried a river
cruise on one of the rivers of Europe, this is definitely
a travel experience as well as a mode of travel to be considered.
For the traveling wine lover, this particular cruise on the
Rhone and Saone rivers, with its opportunities to explore
several important French wine regions—this trip will
not disappoint.
Days 12-15 Lyon. We fell in
love with the beautiful city of Lyon. This city is only 2
hours by TGV from Paris, but in climate and style, it feels
like what it is, the gateway to Southern France. We
were very glad we gave ourselves a few extra days to enjoy
the city at leisure. Lyon is a city for walking, for roaming.
We took photos and bought gifts at the artists market along
the riverbank of the Saone. We wandered the food markets
along the Rhone’s Quai St. Antoine, admiring the produce
and tasting artisan aged cheese.
We visited some of the city’s many museums,
including the Musee de Beaux Arts. We wandered the Croix-Rousse,
the vieux quartier, and discovered some of the traboules
(covered passageways). We climbed high above the city into
the neighborhoods built for the former silk-workers, admired
the view of the city, and took the hundreds of steps down
again to the center. We lunched in a classic Lyonnaise restaurant
and dined in a famous Paul Bocuse restaurant we loved—Le
Sud. It seemed we walked for days, stopping only briefly
to rest our tired feet and snack on cheese and bread, pears
and black figs and olives, until finally it was time to taxi
to the airport for home. Happily, in the secured gate area
for our Air France flight, we were able to buy some souvenirs:
four bottles of good French wine, from the Rhone and Burgundy
of course.
The surprising and perhaps fortunate fact about
Lyon as a travel destination is that it's still relatively
undiscovered--the stunning city center remains a hidden treasure.
Although the city's vitality is perceptible in ancient streets
with restored buildings, there are still many pockets of
the city
where renewal has yet to penetrate. These backstreets and
courtyards may seem daunting, but the history embodied in
so many of them makes even the narrowest of crooked staircases
fascinating.
Lyon enjoys a reputation as France's culinary
capital, but the city is also known for its luminosity. Buildings
and fountains are beautifully lit at night, creating a magical
atmosphere. Cross the River Saone by one of its passerelle
bridges on a an evening at sunset, and you'll see the city
glow with a hazy, burnt-orange light.
Lyon has urban sprawl, and some of the most
humid summers in France. Still, it's much more relaxed and
friendlier than Paris. Parks in full bloom, skyscrapers and
sidewalk cafes, a great transport system, and a nightlife
fueled by student energy invigorate Lyon, along with talented
chefs, both young and old.
Lyon is the best base for exploring the Rhône
region. It has the finest food in France and a historic core
unequaled in the region.
| A Fall
Trip through Provence and the Cote d'Azur | 1, 2,
3
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